My family has had the good fortune to maintain a pair of homes in the Evergreen area since the early 1900s. Over the years, various family members have occupied these houses and occasionally find it necessary to update portions of them. My mom, an accomplished cook and hostess, recently decided to build a new kitchen. She engaged the services of a well-known local architect and friend, Michael Whitehouse.

During one of my visits to my parents’ house Michael and I were talking about the slow food movement and Italian food. Michael mentioned he had a friend that managed a cooking school in Tuscany. He recently introduced me to Paula, and she invited me to teach groups at her beautiful estate in Lucca.

Anyone who is given the opportunity to stay and cook at this unique rural property in Tuscany should throw all caution to the wind and take full advantage. The cuisine and culture of Tuscany have charmed innumerable people over the millennia, including myself. I encourage any of you who are interested to join me there. Go to www.abbondanzatoscana.com

for more information on this phenomenal experience.

One of my greatest mentors is a remarkable Italian-American restaurateur named Steve Cavagnero. He and his family have operated Cavey’s in Connecticut for the better part of the past century. Steve is a warm, generous man that extends the most sincere hospitality a person can. His concern for his guests is only surpassed by his deep love for food and wine. Many times I observed him drift into distraction as he nosed a glass of wine or gently tested tomatoes or fruit for ripeness. Lush herbs grew all around the restaurant, and we used them regularly in our preparations. In true Italian form. Steve would follow the seasons. He had a full repertoire of farmers, foragers and fishmongers to call on, each one having delectable treasures to offer. The pastas were a staple. They varied widely but were all delicious and satisfying in their own way. In Tuscany, beans are a much-loved staple that has been mastered over the centuries. Slowly simmering them with herbs and aromatic vegetables until they are cooked to perfection. This is a variation (everything Italian is) of a pasta Cavey’s serves. I make this often at home and serve it with a simple salad and a medium bodied red wine. You can use can beans if you like but it is worth the effort to cook them. Make extra and turn them into soup or spread.



For the beans:

1 pound dried cannelloni

or cranberry beans

1 whole peeled whole carrot

1 whole celery rib

1 onion

2 garlic cloves

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 sprig rosemary, 3 thyme,

1 bay leaf

Sea salt



Rinse the beans and check for stones. Cover with 2 inches of cold water and soak four to eight hours in the refrigerator. Drain the water and cover with 1 inch water in saucepan. Bring to a simmer, skim and add vegetables, herbs and olive oil. Cover the pot and simmer slowly for 1½ to 2 hours, adding water if needed, until the beans are very tender. Add salt and let stand 10 minutes. Discard the vegetables and reserve the beans in their liquid.



For the sauce:

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup yellow onion, diced

2 clove garlic, sliced thin

1 pinch red pepper flakes

1 28-ounce can tomatoes,

preferably San Marzano

(Blue Spruce Market)

Sea salt

Fresh ground black pepper



Pour the olive oil into the pan and add the onions over medium heat. Stir occasionally for 5 minutes to avoid browning. Add the garlic and pepper flakes and cook another 3 to 4 minutes. Crush the tomatoes some and add to the pot. Simmer slowly for about a half hour. You may need to adjust the consistency with a little water. Season with salt and pepper.



To assemble:

1 pound penne or ziti

1 pound loose spicy Italian fennel

sausage (Boulder Sausage

works)

2 cups cooked green

barely chopped (rapini,

escarole, chard …)

½ cup Parmigiano cheese

coarsely grated (use the

real stuff)

Sea salt

Fresh ground black pepper



Bring 6 to 8 quarts of salted water to a rapid boil. Poor in the pasta and stir. Heat up the frying pan on high and cook the sausage, letting it brown and breaking it up as it cooks.

Monitor the pasta and quickly drain it when it is al dente. Return it to the pot once drained. Pour any excess fat off the sausage and add the sauce, greens and 2 cups of beans. Once this simmers, toss the pasta with a couple cups of the sauce. Check the consistency of the sauce (the bean liquid works great). Adjust if needed and season. The bean liquid works great. Divide the pasta in 6 to 8 bowls, top with more sauce and sprinkle the Parmigiano over them. Pray you made enough and serve.

Hopefully this doesn’t seem too complicated. It is well worth the effort. If you have any trouble, contact me … or come to Tuscany, and I will show you in person.



Curtis Lincoln of Evergreen is chef de cuisine at the Brown Palace Hotel in Denver. Lincoln has been a professional chef for more than 20 years and is a graduate of the world famous Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. You can e-mail him with any comments or questions at clincoln@brownpalace.co