thought the essentials of an Italian herb garden were basil (basilico), parsley (prezzomolo), oregano (origano), and rosemary (rosmarino). I remember my friend’s grandmother growing these in her garden in the 1950’s in Flushing, New York. I loved to be in their house when the “ sauce” was brewing. It was the tantalizing smell of fresh seasonings, tomatoes, onions and garlic that first turned me on to herbs and Italian food. When I was nine years old my girlfriend’s mother gave me my first Italian sauce recipe, and cooking lessons. I have used that recipe with variations ever since.
After years of cooking Italian dishes I knew there were other herbs of importance to this amazing cuisine but until my trip to Italy I did not realize just how many! I was amazed by their variety and center-stage performance. Herbs are the heart of the healthful and simple daily diet of most Italians. The combination of aroma and flavor that they provide add depth and freshness from the antipasti course (appetizer) to the dolci course (dessert).
I was impressed by the numerous “home herb gardens” in Italy (photo). Why not use store-bought herbs in a country where they are readily available and shopping is a daily occurrence? The cultural passion for freshness is the reason! Italians will not settle for good herbs from a market when they can grow the very best.
The typical Italian herb garden stars “Genoese basil” with its medium-sized, light green and pungently flavored leaves. It is an essential ingredient in pesto and used in most dishes calling for tomatoes, to which it has a great affinity.
Flat leaf or Italian parsley did not come by its name accidentally. It is grown in Italy for its robustly flavored, feathery, green leaves. It is a nutritious herb used to flavor innumerable dishes but I never saw it offered as a garnish in Italy. Parsley is for eating! Here is a lesson to be learned by the chefs and consumers in this country.
Rosemary grows wild in much of Italy but at least one plant is tamed for each home garden. Its pungent, pine scented needles are used sparingly in cooked foods and rarely in the “raw.” It is often combined with meats, fish, strong vegetables, potatoes and breads.
Oregano in the north and its “kissing cousin” marjoram in the south of Italy hold a prominent place in this garden. They are similar in appearance with small aromatic oval shaped green leaves. They pair well with tomatoes, vegetables and soups. Marjoram is the milder of the two and is also used to flavor meat and poultry. I must admit that the prominence of marjoram in Italy was one of my big surprises.
The importance of culinary sage in the herb garden as well as the cuisine was also unexpected, but delightful. At home I often used the furry-silvery gray leaves with fatty meats and strong vegetables. My amazement was how delicious cooked sauces were when lightly flavored with it. I still savor the flavor of a “white wine sage sauce” smothering my ravioli in the little town of Fiasole.
A bay tree is often found in the garden setting and their leaves are much more than a flavoring for soups and sauces. I was a bit shocked when I was told by my Italian cooking class instructor to chop them up with all the other herbs for a bread crumb blend to coat lamb chops. Most recipes warn that the leaf should be removed before serving! The difference was that the teacher was using fresh, lithe leaves not the stiff, dried ones that we are accustomed to in this country.
If you are a fan of the bold scent and flavor of Italian cuisine you should plan for a section of your garden to be devoted to these particular herbs. Their harmonious blend with fresh healthful food will nourish your body as well as your spirit. I am sharing a recipe that I hope will pleasantly surprise you as it did me. It was the “first” time I had potatoes and pasta in combination. Very tasty!
Visit www.herbbasket.net or tehachapinews.com with your comments and questions. Enjoy an hebalicious month!
Linguine, patates and pesto
One half cup of pesto sauce
One half pound fresh green beans
One half pound peeled new potatoes
One pound of linguine
One half cup each of basil and Italian parsley (torn apart)
Cook green beans in boiling water to desired doneness. Cook potatoes in the same water until done. Drain and set aside until cool enough to slice (one-quarter inch slices).
Cook pasta until desired doneness, Save two tablespoons of the pasta water to be added to the pesto before serving. This prevents the pesto from clumping. Toss all ingredients together using as much pesto sauce as you like. Serve with grated pecorino-sardo, parmigiano-reggiano or other hard cheese.
An Italian herb graden: revisited
Tuesday, 27. February 2007
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