Seeing Rome is to pig out on sensory overload. But, as we found out, when you're on your own, you can pace your intake of must-see beauty — such as the jammed Trevi fountain — with out-of-the-way spectacular sights relatively free of crowds — such as Renaissance genius Raphael's massive frescoes in the Villa Farnesina gallery, on the Trastevere side of the Tiber river running roughly north to south through Rome. The go-to image is Raphael's real-life lover as the nymph "Galatea." (Few people were there so we had plenty of seating to just stare for an hour.)