Sicily, however, has enough permanent residents to ensure it doesn't become a ghost island in low season. The string of working towns along the eastern coast - including Noto, Ragusa and Modica - have a wonderful mix of decaying baroque architecture and excellent restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Restaurant al Duomo in Ragusa.

In the university town of Syracuse, meanwhile, the local student population ensures that the bars on Piazzetta San Rocco are lively throughout the year. Mount Etna offers hiking opportunities, and there are sandy beaches within a 20-minute drive, including the dune-filled Sampieri.