A GLASS

Unlike some of the male inhabitants of Italy, Italian white is all about subtlety, which makes it an absolute winner on the food front. These wines can tease the very best out of shellfish, seafood, vegetable and tomato-based dishes, along with light poultry and charcuterie.

Gavi, produced in the north-west of the country, north of Genova, has made a bit of a name for itself over the years. Try the Gavi di Gavi 2005, Pio Cesare (£10.99, Peckham's) for a supremely elegant example of what the Cortese grape variety can achieve in the right hands. Expect perfumed layers of forests and delicate fruit, in total harmony. The Gavi Michele Chiarlo 2006 (£8.99, Oddbins) is another good example. It hints of exotic fruits with a nutty trace on the finish.

From the Veneto, Soave has been on the wine map for a very long time. It is based on the Garganega grape, with up to 30% of Trebbiano, Pinot Blanc or Chardonnay in the blend. The Masi Soave Classico 2006 (£6.99, Oddbins) offers great value and is highly refreshing. Notes of toasted almonds mix effortlessly with citrus fruitiness.The Pieropan Soave Classico Superiore 2005 (£9.49, Luvians) is Garganega at its absolute best. It is dry, nutty and complex, with perfect poise and a long lingering finish.

Another reasonably well-known name is Verdicchio, produced from the grape of the same name near the Adriatic Sea to the west of Ancona. It has high natural acidity and is very refreshing Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi 2005, Umani Ronchi (£6.99, Peckham's) has hallmark hazelnut notes mingling with delicate citrus. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Luzano 2005 (£7.49, Oddbins) is beautifully perfumed with tempting floral notes. The palate is lively, playful and lingering.

A lesser-known name, Lugana, is produced South of Lake Garda. It is made from Trebbiano di Lugana, which can be a bit on the bland side, but not in the case of these two wines.

Le Fornaci Lugana 2005 (£8.99, Peckham's) is clean, fresh and zesty, with good balance all round. The C'a de Frati Lugana (£10.49, Peckham's) is arguably the better of the two. It is vibrant, with refreshing acidity, and is surprisingly rich on the palate.

From the heart of Umbria comes Orvieto, in dry (secco), off-dry (amabile) and sweet (dolce). Historically described as "the sun of Italy in a bottle", again it relies on the Trebbiano variety, with some Malvasia, Grechetto and Drupeggio thrown in. If you don't like your wines too dry, try the Orvieto Bonacchi Classico 2004 Amabile (£4.99, Peckham's). Its clean, simple lines with a touch of residual sugar lurking in the fruit-salad flavours hit the spot nicely.

Another famous name is Frascati, the white wine of Rome that comes in a range of guises. For a bargain, crisp white wine with delightful lemon notes, try Frascati Superiore 2005, Villa Primavera (£3.29, Somerfield). For a more upmarket version, try Frascati Superiore Poggio le Volpi (£8.99, Threshers or £5.99 when you buy three). It is softly scented, with floral and almond notes and a hugely refreshing character.

I would find it tough to mention Italian whites without plucking at least one from my favourite region, Campania, around Naples in the south. Try Greco di Tufo Loggia della Serra' Terredora (£11.49, Oddbins) for a mineral-tinged, sophisticated drinking experience.