I ONLY arrived in Italy yesterday, but already I have enough recipes to give Jamie Oliver a run for his money. I'm in the Campania region, in the south of the country, and life here very pleasantly revolves around food - I can already feel my waistband beginning to strain.

When I pop into a tiny shop in the fishing village of Cetara to have a look around, Julio, the exuberant owner, offers to give me a guided tour of the generations-old family business - and pass on a few cooking tips. The shelves of the front shop are packed with glass jars of all shapes and sizes, which are filled with tuna and anchovies soaked in olive oil. They're the perfect accompaniment for a good pasta dish, says Julio, before launching into a colourful description of how to make spaghetti with anchovies. My tastebuds are tingling - even though I had breakfast just an hour ago.