The rather drab sidewalk entrance to Gabriela's doesn't prepare visitors for everything that's inside. Not knowing what to expect, I was encouraged to see bright blue and orange ceramic tiles around the open kitchen as soon as I went through the door. Then I caught a glimpse of pitchers filled with lush oranges, apples and other fruit, just waiting to become sangria ($10) via the addition of a bring-your-own bottle of wine.

But it was the dining room that turned out to be the biggest, and most pleasant, surprise. The back wall has been transformed into the front of a Portuguese house, typical of the Algarve region that has been home to the restaurant's owner, Gabriela Mendonca. It has stucco "walls" and a front door, with details complete down to the lace curtains in the little window, setting just the right mood that is complemented by Portuguese music playing softly in the background.