Some anglers take all this as a sign that it’s time to take a break until fall. Other, more obsessed fishermen keep right on fishing, but change their strategy in order to get sluggish fish to feed again.
One remedy is to fish at night when the sun’s rays aren’t super-heating the water’s surface. Fish such as bass and walleye often drift up from cooler, deep-water haunts at night to scour shallow water for a meal.
Shallow running artificial lures work at night to fool some of these fish, but there is a better choice when the fish are sluggish and conditioned to seeing lures: It’s time to switch to live bait. Some fly fishermen and bass tournament anglers might argue the point, but the absolute truth is that if fished correctly, the right live bait will always out-fish any artificial bait, especially during the dog days of summer.
There are lots of live bait choices, but each requires a bit of knowledge in order to present it properly.
The simplest to acquire and use is the nightcrawler. For big fish such as bass, pike or walleye, use a whole crawler. If suspending it under a float, thread a single hook through the collar or “wacky-worm” style — through the middle. When drifting a crawler, it is necessary to hook it once through the tip, and again at the end with a trailer hook.
To drift or troll a leech, run a single hook through the suction cup and allow it to swim. When fishing one under a float, hook it through the middle of its body. This stops it from wrapping around the hook.
To drift a crayfish, it should be attached with a single hook about an inch from the end of the tail. The hook should have its tip pointed upward. When fished under a float, it’s best to run the hook through the top of the crayfish’s shell.
It’s a good idea to remove a crayfish’s claws when fishing near vegetation or other structure. Otherwise, they will grab onto the stuff and pull free from the hook.
Live frogs are the toughest bait to procure, but easily the deadliest on big fish during the hot summer months. There are several types of frogs in Indiana, but not all of them are suitable for fishing. Bullfrogs are generally too big, and tree frogs are typically too small.
The common green frog makes good bait, but the southern leopard frog is even better. Both are plentiful in Indiana, but both require some know-how and quick reflexes to capture them.
Both species can be found around swamps and creeks with minimal or no fish populations. A long-handled net should be positioned in front of the frog, anticipating its direction of travel once spooked. If done correctly, the frog will jump right into the net.
They are easier to approach at night with a spotlight than during the day, and can often also be coaxed into biting a fly fishing lure and hooked.
Live frogs aren’t suited to trolling or sinking with a weight. They should instead just be hooked through both lips from the bottom. Toss them into a likely spot, and just let them swim in a natural fashion. If they are allowed to get into vegetation, however, they will often either snag or pull off.
When rigging live frogs, always use a single, circle hook. Circle hooks are round with a wide gap and small shank. Their point bends inward toward the shank.
They are a good choice when using any live bait rig because they are less likely to be swallowed and embedded in a fish’s throat or gut. Obviously, this is a big plus for fishermen who like to release their catch unharmed.
When a fish takes a bait hooked with a circle hook, resist the temptation to set the hook. By simply applying pressure with the rod tip, the hook rotates and pierces the fish’s lip. Circle hooks almost always embed themselves in the corner of the fish’s mouth, making unhooking not only better for the fish, but the angler as well.